demiCouture | VANCOUVER FASHION & STYLE BLOG + VANCOUVER FASHION + GLOBAL FASHION


Top Men’s Runway Looks For Spring/Summer 2009

 

3.1 PHILLIP LIM
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Phillip Lim gave us inspiration for cropped and cuffed pants, and a vision of snakeskin brogues. With largely patternless pieces, 3.1 will be a line that is one of the easier to emulate during the Spring 2009 season. Smart double breasted blazers re-occured, as well as minimalistic patterns.

To get the look of Lim, choose one (or two if you’re daring) piece to showcase (as was done with the bold footwear), and build from that. Avoid neons and rich tones, go for a gentle pastel to bring us effectively into the post-Fall style shift; and accompany with shades of navy, gray and whites.  If you can find geometric shapes, work them subtley into your look; layer with light cottons or blend with accessories.

View the entire collection.

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BAND OF OUTSIDERS
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Band of Outsiders seems to have the preppy boater and the Blues Brothers. I have to admit I was a little taken aback with their take on a very geometric plaid print, but as I viewed additional outfits with more and more of a supplement of the pattern, rather than a heaping I was relieved. There has yet to be a collection by Band of Outsiders I have not loved, and for good reason. Their simple take on classic pieces paired creatively together is likeable and easily integrated into any wardrobe.

To become an Outsider, gather your vibrant reds, yellows and blues; then prepare to layer. Band takes essences of the classic gentleman look such as suspenders and bowties, yet keeps the look young and kicking with cheeky casual loafers, patterns and brights. I liked the length of the shorts, as well. They seemed very non threatening, and not too cropped that we may see a few too many bits for a sidewalk look.

View the entire collection.

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D&G
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Praise be to D&G, the bow tie has been given new life! It seemed that there was a hybrid theme; almost a track theme versus the revenge of the nerds. What a juxtaposition! The silk seemed to avoid any feeling of the boys wearing their grandfather’s clothes; it was all a dapper mash of gentleman’s blazers, streamlined slacks and Euro sneakers. Oh, and of course the always geek-chic specs (though I can’t imagine these really catching on).

The silk pieces won’t be easily found and they won’t come cheaply, so prepare to spend to get this signature D&G look. Find yourself a nice light leather jacket while Fall sales are still occurring in order to avoid the Spring price gouging for must-have-now designs that really don’t look a whole lot different than they did last season. Bow ties can easily be found in vintage shops, especially the polka dot variety. When buying, keep the ever-present navy and greys in mind as your base work for putting a visual together.

View the entire collection.

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COMME DES GARÇONS
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Black seems to have been the ticket for Rei Kawakubo, despite the usual designer’s lighter shades. This was a very moody collection; befitting for dreary confines of cities such as Vancouver or London where the weather morale isn’t usually at peaking levels. Despite that, this is a solid collection. We have unique paint-spattered blazers, pieces with writing screened onto them, classic black brogues and even a handful of man-skirts (though those are without recommendation, I’m afraid).

To be ‘like the boys’ as they say, gather up a few pairs of skinny well-cut slacks, a few vintage pork pie or fedora hats (to decorate with subtle feathers and faux flowers) and invest in a quality pair of leather brogues. If there was one piece to purchase from this collection, it would be the utterly sublime tuxedo cut hoody (shown above, to the extreme right). If one is to do casual, this is the way!

View the entire collection.

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DSQUARED²
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The Dsquared twins seemed to created their own vision of the urban professional.  Tuxedo jackets and blazers ruled the runway, twisted with a very hip hop feel, not only because of the bling; but with boxy shorts, round caps, high tops and mid calf sport socks.  There was an alter ego to the show as well; trouser jeans, ties and traditional trenches were also intermingled within the vision of the Caten twins.

Do avoid mucking this look up with any sort of rapper-style gold whatsoever.  This may work within the tightly controlled environment of the runway, but it will not fare so well on a city’s sidewalk.  Keep things classic, yet exaggerated to create the look of Dsquared².  Pick up a brown loafer, a few waistcoats in cremes and pastels, a spunky gray tuxedo jacket and intermingle this with what you already have.

View the entire collection.

***

GUCCI

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Gucci appears to have invented the modern leisure suit.  We saw pastels and cremes cut from lightweight fabrics and paired with matching jackets and slacks.  Aside from the ever-present suiting, there was a definite 60s influence with flower stitching on leather jackets, as well as essences of the 70s shown through track jackets and striped slacks.

Beef up your closet with vintage finds to emulate the Gucci look and feel.  If you’ve wisely kept your colored denim, plan to allow them to escape once again.  Layer leathers and jackets with cardigans and  t-shirts and finish off with a leather loafer.

View the entire collection.

***

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

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I’m not going to mince words, if I was a man, I would have a raging hard-on for this collection.  The layering was sublime with boating stripes, just-loose-enough knits over collared shirts and cuffed pants or shorts.  The coloring varied from intense burnt oranges to the sky blue shown, but it was all primed for mixing and matching.  I liked the casual sneakers paired with a suit blazer; it gave the look a youthful kick without being inappropriatley casual.

It is very likely most pieces like these will already be in your charge.  Take your straight leg denim in faded gray and black, and update them to Spring with a simple cuff above your kicks.  Try two dominating patterns (such as the striped shirt and salt and pepper jacket shown) that work within eachother’s color and shapes; just ensure that one is less abrasive on the eye than the other.  Finish off with multiple beaded necklaces (perhaps a rosary?) and a modern straw fedora to achieve the SS09 Marc.

View the entire collection.

***

MOSCHINO

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Moschino had a bit of a visual mish-mash.  Two toned nearly Joker-esque trousers, slightly muted green slacks, fish scale sequin waistcoats and perfect white Summer loafers.  There was a smattering of intense 70s-esque patterns; usually localized to a tie and matching shoe, though at times appearing on an entire slack.  Surprisingly, there was a sequin persence about the Moschino collection; showing up on waistcoats only as a striping or covering the entire piece (as shown above).  I truly did not care for the flogging of the “peace” sign on clothing or belt buckles; it seemed wildly tacky.

Moschino is definitely for the adventurous man’s wardrobe.  Sequins are not something most of the populus will undertake (or high street retailers will be wanting to try cloning), though for the certain intense personality it could work.  Stick with colored and patterned slacks from vintage shops, and have them tailored to fit the leg snugly in a straight streamed line.  There is not an intense amount of complication to the Moschino look; simply play up your patterns and textures and layer traditionally with a slim slack, tie, cardigan or blazer.

View the entire collection.

***

PAUL SMITH

 

Get the look:

Paul’s collection was a lacking as much color influence has his vibrant Fall collection, but created a strong men’s show nevertheless.  The cuffed denim (as well as suit trousers) were a staple visual, as well as the ever popular horizontal stripe tie.  There was a minor splash of colour on the footwear (as you can see above), though the overall palate was very dim and slightly gloomy for a Spring collection.

Paul’s look relies on working through two distinct looks; the renewing of the classic suit, as well as the smart casual denim look. Roll up a pair of older worked in jeans, and pair with a vibrant shoe.  Layer with a button-up oxford and a striped tie (possibly tucked between the button openings halfway down the torso), and you have a classic Paul look that will be sure to impress wardrobe cynics everywhere.

View the entire collection.

***

RAG & BONE

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Rag & Bone shows us what mature post-punk can do for a man’s wardrobe.  R&G also demonstrates precisely how one can wear beetle-stomping boots, a striped top and suspenders yet still remain wildly unlike any hell-raising punk soul you’ve ever sashayed across the sidewalk to avoid.  The designs also manage to utilize the motorcycle jacket, zippered pants and heavy black oxfords without looking too overbearing; a feat in itself for using such heavy items! 

Instead of spending your dollars on another awful pair of bondage pants from your local Gothic watering hole, take yourself back to D.I.Y. punk roots and give an old pair of gray slacks some new life with a few well-placed zippers.  Pick up a leather jacket from a shop like Winners (where designer pieces get a second life), or a vintage boutique.  Pair with skinny black (or grey) slacks, white or black summer brogues and a well-buttoned polo; even with a pair of suspenders and a belt for those more daring.  Are you up for the challenge?

View the entire collection.

***

RALPH LAUREN

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This look is quintessentially Ralph Lauren.  He sticks with what he creates best: the ultimate men’s prep look.  The collection builds from navy blue blazers and cardigans, white effects from shorts and traditional boating jackets.  He has also stayed true to his coloring; paled oranges, yellows, pinks and greens over the base of navy.

The colors of the bottoms may be difficult to find if you aren’t in the budget of buying new Lauren, though I would encourage you to pay attention to in-store sales (as they occur often).  As long as you have a non-descript light utilitarian jacket, a few navy blazers, striped ties and a preppy sweater or two you’re in the clear.

View the entire collection.

***

Z ZEGNA

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Viktor & Rolf had one confusing show.  Though I was conflicted as to if I should post about them, I decided that these pieces were worth the mention.  Through the seemingly disorganized pairings of African-like patterns, untailored blazers, suits looking a bit too leisurely and ill fitting harem pants, you see the faint light at the end of the tunnel.  On the models shown above, their outfits are well pieced, layered and cut.  Even with a baby blue tuxedo jacket and shorts, the look manages to ground itself with a grey waistcoat and patent brogues…but what happened to the majority of the outfits?!

Regardless, there is some merit in the latest Viktor & Rolf offering.  Stick with silk trousers, but ensure they have a proper straight cut to avoid looking to pajama-like.  Try a pastel yellow pant (bonus points awarded for a subtle stripe), and layer with a darker waistcoat to ground the look.  Make sure your tie is a skinny cut pastel, and your shoes are white (that keeps people guessing)!

View the entire collection.

***

YVES SAINT LAURENT

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YSL has a subtle 80s air, yet seems to be able to market these looks without the boys looking like they just hopped out of the Doc’s delorian.  Fitted leather jackets and blazers were among the usual outfit toppers, as well as straight lines on slacks (with a crease; it’s not just for “old” folks) and a casual lace-ups.

To be one with the YSL boys, try pairing a slim slack (perhaps with a cuff) with a suede lace-up shoe.  Hide a pale t-shirt or oxford button-up under a clean looking leather jacket or blazer and you’re good to go. Make sure you’re free of embellishments; this look requires a bare slate of neutrals to keep cool looking classic.

View the entire collection.

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1 Comment so far
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Excellent, thank you!

Comment by Jared




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